When I was younger, oh so much younger, my dream was to have a very large family and to work from home as a dressmaker. Well I have the large family and over the last few years I am starting to realise the work from home part of my dream. The reality is a lot different from the dream. Its a lot harder to do and sometimes there is not enough time to do everything, but I do so much love it all.

These last few months I have been very busy mostly doing alterations for a laundrette. I also do alterations for an ever growing list of clients as well. I have also made shirts and some tops for other clients.

V2634

For my self I have made a few shirts http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2634.htm?search=2634&page=1 is one of the patterns. I have made this 3 times now. A dress http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8489.htm?search=8489&page=1 and that's pretty much it for myself. I will blog about and include photos of these two patterns soon. Oh! and I nearly forgot this 1954 vogue design http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2960.htm?search=2960&page=1 which when I was testing the pattern on some old fabric from my stash thought the test was good enough to wear so I finished it off properly and I wear it.

I am starting to work on two formal dresses for two of my nieces. These are images of what the 1st dress is to look like. I have drafted the foundation for this dress using the sitam method of pattern making.

The fit on the toile was pretty close I just have to tighten the side seams a little, contour under the bust and tighten the princess seam above the bust a little. Next I will alter the pattern to match the toile and cut out the foundation in twill, add interfacing, boning, waist stay, lining and fasteners. More photos soon.

Burda Jacket and Top

Burda 11-2008-102b

I made the jacket to the pattern except I didn't add the belt.

The description in the Burda magazine "This elegant jacket is absolutely loaded with fabulous features-inverted box pleats and broad cuffs provide for the puffy sleeve effect, the waist is highlighted by a buckled belt while the wavy hem-edge looks like a very feminine peplum!"

I traced off the size 38 pattern. I shortened the bodice for length across the chest near the armhole notch by 1cm and under the arm, taking out 2cm in length from the front and the back pattern peices. I shortened the sleeves by 2cm. Made a toile to check the fit and didn't do any more alterations to the pattern though now in retrospect I should have altered the width across the chest as it is a little wide in the shoulders.

The fabric is from spotlight. It wasn't very expensive and I think it is an acrylic/wool mix. With not a lot of wool. This jacket is not lined.

I read the instructions through before commencing this project and found them ok except when I got to the collar application. I read this part of the instructions a few times before I understood what was required.

I like this jacket, it looks really good with straight skirts and pants. I don't think I'll make this pattern again though as I can't see the need for more than one and there are so many more patterns I want to try.



Burda 11-2008-103b

The burda description, "Finest elastic jersey comfortably jugs your figure, a pretty dotted print and empire waistline add fashion fair. The plunging neckline adds a sexy eyecatcher and perfect for showing off one of the latest over-sized necklaces!

I used my usual size 36 in the shoulders and traced out to a 38 for width from the bust down. Shortened the sleeves by 2cm. I didn't make a toile for this top.

The fabric was purchased in spotlight. Its a black/teal/white polyester knit?

As usual I read the instruction through first. This top was quick and easy to make and a great wardrobe builder.

I will make this pattern again in the spring with short sleeves.

I still want to make a few more of the patterns in this magazine as there are a lot of nice designs in this issue. 104a,117 and I like the childrens fashions for my granddaughter, possibly 121 as I have not tried the burda pant patterns as yet and I have read that the fit is really good.

Burda World of Fashion 5/2007 116B

Recently I made this blouse from the Burda World of Fashion magazine 5/2007 116B. http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/116_B_Blouse/1270777-1463237-1487611-1487617-1487792.html

I thought this would make a nice little shirt and it did. I start tracing the size 36 pattern at the neck and shoulder going out to the 38 lines on the side seams. I have made this pattern up twice now and both times in a cotton voile. The second time I used the collar and sleeve from 117.

I read the burda instructions through first and then didn't need to refer to them. The shirts went together quickly and easily and I will probably use this pattern again. I used Vilene G785 to interface the the front facings and collars with a double layer on the collar stand on 116B. The shirts turned out well and were reasonably cheap and quick to make.

Draping a block on larger figures.

I know its been a while since I have posted as I have been really busy between family and working. I have had a lot of alteration jobs and some sewing of garment jobs as well.
This photo is when I was practicing draping the block I wanted on my daughter. After draping the block I drafted the sleeve to fit the block.

I have had success with draping a block on a larger figure and using the drape to draft knit top patterns and shirt patterns. I have made the shirts with differing collars and sleeves and lengths. I have also used the draped block to help alter commercial patterns for a couple of ladies. With some of the patterns I have altered, the draped block helped considerably as it showed some of the alterations that needed to happen even before tissue fitting the pattern like the shoulder slope, the position of the dart, the large difference between small shoulders a verly large bust and the shape of the armhole. All good learning experiences. I am enjoying learning about fitting and seeing the completed garments.

I will soon be using the draped block to draft a jacket pattern. I'm really looking forward to doing this. I wonder how many toiles I'll have to make before I get the pattern right?