12 Jackets/Coats in 2011

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Black Wool/polyester skirt

As I'm trying to use up my stash of fabrics I found myself brousing the internet for design ideas for an 80cm by 150cm piece of Wool/polyester that I had in my stash. I came across this skirt idea which is cut on the princess seams and it has a flared piece in the back but it still retains a straight slim look.

I started the draft by drafting a basic skirt draft with no ease at the waist and 4cm ease included in the hip measurement. I made the draft to a length of 60cm which is at the bottom of my knee (I'm only short, about 159cm) and made the side seams straight. On the centre back of the draft 22cm above the hem I made a mark and on the princess seam 19cm above the hem I made another mark which I joined to the 22cm mark with a slight curve. This piece I then cut away and I slashed and flared it as in the diagram.

As my thighs are a little on the heavy side (read this as I am pear shaped, my fat sacks are on my bottom and my thighs) I added 0.5cm from the hip line down to the hem line. I also did a sway back adjustment on the back waistline.

This skirt wasn't that hard to draft as can be seen from my drafting plan.

The sewing sequence:

  • centre back seam of flare
  • stay stitch and then attach flare to centre back piece
  • attach side back pieces to centre back piece
  • attach side front pieces to centre front piece
  • left side seam from zipper mark down
  • zipper application
  • right side seam
  • gather each side front waist and side back waist pieces and take out .5cm . and attach stay tape

For the lining I followed the same sequence untill I got to the waist which I attached to the waist of the skirt after I gathered the side pieces. Turned in the lining, sewed down the lining to the zipper tape and hemmed my new skirt.

I am pleased with my new skirt as it makes its debut in my wardrobe and leaves my stash forever.

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