12 Jackets/Coats in 2011

Friday, December 7, 2007

Ethan's Formal Outfit

After measuring Ethan and comparing his measurements to the pattern I decided to start with a size 40. I knew there would be a lot of altering to get a good fit as his back, shoulders, arms and chest are large in comparison to his waist meaurement (his waist measurement is smaller than the size 36) also most of the muscle is in his back. I started with the vest which needed less fitting than the jacket.
The vest front was ok.

On the back vest I took out a small 1cm dart on the back arcscye easing to nothing on the centre back.

I also took off 3.3cm down to 1.3cm on each of the back
and the front side seams.

The vest was a perfect fit after this.

I wish the jacket had been as easy.
back jacket alterations

On the jacket 1st toile I made the front dart half its size taking out the extra at the side seam and reshaping at the waistline. This alteration was thanks to a review I read on patternreview. There was still a bit too much fabric in the middle of the front so I darted it out. The back and under the arms needed a lot more taken out to fit. On the half back I took out 2cm from the underarm down to the waist, 1.5cm from the side back panel easing to nothing mid shoulder and 2cm from where the centre back panel meets the side panel reducing to nothing at the curve of the panel. Also from the centre back at shoulder blade level I darted out 1cm to nothing at the shoulder blade. I then altered my pattern and made another toile. On this toile the fit was much closer but the back was still too big at the waist and the back waistline needed to be lowered. I took out another 1cm at the waist from the side back panel reducing to nothing a little into the shoulder blade of the centre back panel and I lowered the back waist down 1.8cm to nothing at the side seam. I altered the pattern ready for the fashion fabric.

The finished vest. I fused the complete front of the vest with whisperweft.

The finished jacket.
The photos show creases but the jacket looked pretty good on Ethan when he stood straight. I've never done any tailoring before so a lot of mistakes were made such as fabric being too light, (pattern did suggest medium weight wool). The fitting of the jacket could have been better. I did add a back stay which wasn't in the pattern instructions and I think that helped a little. Also not starting the outfit a lot earlier. I had to rush and I hate working to deadlines that are near impossible to reach. So for the next formal we will start saving for the fabrics early so there will be no reasons to start so late. All in all a very good learning experience and Ethan looked pretty good.


Darlene said...

Excellent work Lorelle.

Janine said...

The outfit looks fantastic, Lorelle.