Burda Jacket and Top

Burda 11-2008-102b

I made the jacket to the pattern except I didn't add the belt.

The description in the Burda magazine "This elegant jacket is absolutely loaded with fabulous features-inverted box pleats and broad cuffs provide for the puffy sleeve effect, the waist is highlighted by a buckled belt while the wavy hem-edge looks like a very feminine peplum!"

I traced off the size 38 pattern. I shortened the bodice for length across the chest near the armhole notch by 1cm and under the arm, taking out 2cm in length from the front and the back pattern peices. I shortened the sleeves by 2cm. Made a toile to check the fit and didn't do any more alterations to the pattern though now in retrospect I should have altered the width across the chest as it is a little wide in the shoulders.

The fabric is from spotlight. It wasn't very expensive and I think it is an acrylic/wool mix. With not a lot of wool. This jacket is not lined.

I read the instructions through before commencing this project and found them ok except when I got to the collar application. I read this part of the instructions a few times before I understood what was required.

I like this jacket, it looks really good with straight skirts and pants. I don't think I'll make this pattern again though as I can't see the need for more than one and there are so many more patterns I want to try.



Burda 11-2008-103b

The burda description, "Finest elastic jersey comfortably jugs your figure, a pretty dotted print and empire waistline add fashion fair. The plunging neckline adds a sexy eyecatcher and perfect for showing off one of the latest over-sized necklaces!

I used my usual size 36 in the shoulders and traced out to a 38 for width from the bust down. Shortened the sleeves by 2cm. I didn't make a toile for this top.

The fabric was purchased in spotlight. Its a black/teal/white polyester knit?

As usual I read the instruction through first. This top was quick and easy to make and a great wardrobe builder.

I will make this pattern again in the spring with short sleeves.

I still want to make a few more of the patterns in this magazine as there are a lot of nice designs in this issue. 104a,117 and I like the childrens fashions for my granddaughter, possibly 121 as I have not tried the burda pant patterns as yet and I have read that the fit is really good.

Burda World of Fashion 5/2007 116B

Recently I made this blouse from the Burda World of Fashion magazine 5/2007 116B. http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/116_B_Blouse/1270777-1463237-1487611-1487617-1487792.html

I thought this would make a nice little shirt and it did. I start tracing the size 36 pattern at the neck and shoulder going out to the 38 lines on the side seams. I have made this pattern up twice now and both times in a cotton voile. The second time I used the collar and sleeve from 117.

I read the burda instructions through first and then didn't need to refer to them. The shirts went together quickly and easily and I will probably use this pattern again. I used Vilene G785 to interface the the front facings and collars with a double layer on the collar stand on 116B. The shirts turned out well and were reasonably cheap and quick to make.

Draping a block on larger figures.

I know its been a while since I have posted as I have been really busy between family and working. I have had a lot of alteration jobs and some sewing of garment jobs as well.
This photo is when I was practicing draping the block I wanted on my daughter. After draping the block I drafted the sleeve to fit the block.

I have had success with draping a block on a larger figure and using the drape to draft knit top patterns and shirt patterns. I have made the shirts with differing collars and sleeves and lengths. I have also used the draped block to help alter commercial patterns for a couple of ladies. With some of the patterns I have altered, the draped block helped considerably as it showed some of the alterations that needed to happen even before tissue fitting the pattern like the shoulder slope, the position of the dart, the large difference between small shoulders a verly large bust and the shape of the armhole. All good learning experiences. I am enjoying learning about fitting and seeing the completed garments.

I will soon be using the draped block to draft a jacket pattern. I'm really looking forward to doing this. I wonder how many toiles I'll have to make before I get the pattern right?

Maddies year 6 Graduation Dress

My 12yr old has just had her yr6 graduation. Above is a picture that she gave me and then emailed me addressed to Mummy of the outfit that she wanted to wear to her graduation. Maddie is very creative. Her art, crafting and cooking skills are terrific. You can hand her any recipe and it always turns out yummy. She actually cooks dinner for the 9 of us some nights and always does a terrific meal for us. I couldn't change her mind about this outfit as I didn't like this outfit. I wanted her to wear a pretty dress but this is what she wanted to wear and she has very definate ideas about what she will wear and she can be very stubborn. Maddie is my 7th child and I only have two daughters.

She insisted on choosing her fabric so we went to spotlight to see what we could find. She found some Disco micro dot in lots of different colors. She chose a black, pink, purple and blue in the fabric as there was nothing printed already. I cut out just over 100 12cm squares out of the fabrics. I started sewing them together on my overlocker but it decided to start playing up again after recently being serviced so I just used a small zig zag stitch on the sewing machine. The overlocker is about 20yrs old so its probably time to replace it as its worked pretty hard all these years and untill recently always been reliable. I drafted the pattern rather quickly as it is just a straight shift with no shaping. I used a satin fabric as a lining which was a mistake as I feel a knit lining would have been a better choice. I have had a lot of work lately and being short of time I didn't think the project through properly. Its amazing how I will look at a project and see all my mistakes and yet Maddie was very happy with her dress and even more happy when at her graduation all her friends complemented her on what she was wearing as she was different to everyone else. The dress was worn with 2 tops and bike shorts that actually came down to her knees. She changed her mind on the leg warmers and the shoes to just wear thongs.Now getting her to stand straight, still and pose for a photo without doing something silly was an effort that cannot be imagined. I must have taken a dozen photos.

Newlook 6563

This pattern from Newlook caught my eye last year. I like each view of it and I would like to make them all. I've started by making view c the little apricot top. I'm trying to use up any fabrics I have already and this cotton voile was perfect for this top. I have 3.2mtrs so maybe a skirt out of whats leftover would be nice too as the top only takes 1.2mtrs.

I started by tracing the size 12 of this pattern. I shortened the pattern accross the front and the back by 1cm just under the arms. I added 1cm on back and front sideseams at the hip and the waist and tapered to nothing just under the arms.I then made a toile and realised that I had forgotten to do a sway back adjustment of 12ml, which I then did to the pattern. I also felt that the 1cm that I had originally added to the front and back side seams at the hip and waist was to much and I adjusted it to 4ml on each of the seams.

These 2 photos show pattern after the adjustments.

I read the sewing instructions first and noted that they were all over the place and then I sewed it together. I always stay stitch my neck edges. I didn't find a need to look at the instructions again untill I got to the center front loops and facing. It wasn't a hard garment to sew up and I'm very pleased with the way it looks. I was a little concerned that the peplum would make my hips look larger but it doesn't. Its a nice cool little summer top. I also sewed beads on the back tie which look kinda cute.

This photo shows the inside of the peplum joining the body of the top. Also the lace and the button loops.

Now that I have made view c I am planning to make view e in a green/purple silk chiffon/nylon fabric and view a in a white embroidered cotton.

New dress

This is the design of a new dress that I have wanted to make. Its a very simple design and I thought that it would look good and be cool on hot days as well as be quick to make. I have chosen an Orange printed polyester fabric that I got from the Remnant Warehouse.

It wasn't a hard design to draft but I had to think about how the back was drafted and also getting rid of the darts in the front skirt. I don't know if the draft is technically correct but it worked and thats all I care about. The plan below shows what I did to the draft much better than I could describe it.

I lined this dress with a stretch knit lining and centred a zipper in the back. I think the dress turned out rather nice and its comfortable and cool. This fabric does crease easily but that doesn't matter too much.

This dress has also been made in a Polyester georgette and lined with sunsilky polyester lining. I used an invisible zipper in the back of this one. For now I wont make this pattern again but I have kept it for possible future use. The brown dress is still to be hemmed but is otherwise finished.

Sewing for the Family

I went into Spotlight last week specifically to purchase a pattern for me as they were on special for $5.99 and I wanted to test and fit myself with a Burda. I went shopping with one of my daughters, Madeleine. I never found anything I liked but she did so I bought Burda 8042 for her.


My friend Janine gave her a nice piece of teal fleecy which will make her 2 of these Jackets. My eldest daughter Constanze has also requested one of these jackets in black. The 3 of us have very similar measurements so I will start with the size 36 pattern for us all just altering for sleeve length and body width in the waist and hips where appropriate.

For one of my sons, Connor, at a previous pattern sale I had purchased Burda 9860.

I will make this pattern in a denim for the pants and a very dark purple for the jacket. This pattern goes up to a size 14 so I might be able to use it for another son Aaron as well.

As for the my pattern contest of Patternreview.com I didn't get my coat finished on time and I am still working on it. The design took me a while to decide on and I'm currently working on drafting the pattern. The back and front drafts are completed and I still have to draft the sleeves, Collar, pockets, lining and interfacing pieces.