Trouser Draft

I've been playing around with pant drafting. I've done pant drafts before for other people but it's a little different when making patterns and fitting myself, it's easier to fit other people.

The finished trouser pattern.

I have added seam allowances to this pattern 1cm on the crotch curve, 3cm on the side seams, 1.5cm to the waist and pocket pieces and 5cm hem. The white parts on the front and back pant patterns are the alterations I had to do after making the toile. On the crotch curve I had to make more space for my shape.

Michelle's Formal Dress

I thought I would catch up with my posts firstly with Michelle's formal outfit. This is the very pretty Michelle.

This is the sketch that Michelle drew for me to make her design from.

This is a rough sketch I did so I would know how to draft the pattern. I made her block with no ease at the bust and waist and with 4cm ease in the hip area. When making her pattern from her block I left in the waist darts in the front and transferred the back darts into centre back shaping and the side seams. I also darted out some from the dropped back. I should have taken out more from the dropped back for a better fit (lesson learned)

I worked on this dress and overskirt at the same time as Ethans formal outfit so I was really pushed for time. Michelle drew the design that she wanted, a short dress with a lace up back and a cowl on the front with a detachable sheer overskirt.
The dress was a satin fabric overlaid with the sheer organza. I used the satin fabric for the band on the overskirt. The draft wasn't too hard. The overskirt was a full circle with a cascade on either side of the opening, which was at side front. The dress was a basic shift style with a side zipper and the back cut out. The back was then laced up.
The dress front.

The dress back.
The bead embroidered disc which I added over the closure. The centre of this disc is a button with a butterfly on it. It was a metal button that my son grinded the shank off, I glued the button to the fabric and then sewed the beads around it. Considering how much time I had the design turned out pretty good and Michelle was very happy.

Ethan's Formal Outfit

After measuring Ethan and comparing his measurements to the pattern I decided to start with a size 40. I knew there would be a lot of altering to get a good fit as his back, shoulders, arms and chest are large in comparison to his waist meaurement (his waist measurement is smaller than the size 36) also most of the muscle is in his back. I started with the vest which needed less fitting than the jacket.
The vest front was ok.


On the back vest I took out a small 1cm dart on the back arcscye easing to nothing on the centre back.



I also took off 3.3cm down to 1.3cm on each of the back
and the front side seams.

The vest was a perfect fit after this.






I wish the jacket had been as easy.
back jacket alterations





On the jacket 1st toile I made the front dart half its size taking out the extra at the side seam and reshaping at the waistline. This alteration was thanks to a review I read on patternreview. There was still a bit too much fabric in the middle of the front so I darted it out. The back and under the arms needed a lot more taken out to fit. On the half back I took out 2cm from the underarm down to the waist, 1.5cm from the side back panel easing to nothing mid shoulder and 2cm from where the centre back panel meets the side panel reducing to nothing at the curve of the panel. Also from the centre back at shoulder blade level I darted out 1cm to nothing at the shoulder blade. I then altered my pattern and made another toile. On this toile the fit was much closer but the back was still too big at the waist and the back waistline needed to be lowered. I took out another 1cm at the waist from the side back panel reducing to nothing a little into the shoulder blade of the centre back panel and I lowered the back waist down 1.8cm to nothing at the side seam. I altered the pattern ready for the fashion fabric.






The finished vest. I fused the complete front of the vest with whisperweft.










The finished jacket.
The photos show creases but the jacket looked pretty good on Ethan when he stood straight. I've never done any tailoring before so a lot of mistakes were made such as fabric being too light, (pattern did suggest medium weight wool). The fitting of the jacket could have been better. I did add a back stay which wasn't in the pattern instructions and I think that helped a little. Also not starting the outfit a lot earlier. I had to rush and I hate working to deadlines that are near impossible to reach. So for the next formal we will start saving for the fabrics early so there will be no reasons to start so late. All in all a very good learning experience and Ethan looked pretty good.

Ethans Formal Outfit

I know I havn't posted for a while so its time to catch up.

I have just commenced making my son Ethans outfit for his formal. He wants to wear a kilt so I ordered Folkwear Pattern 152. I have just commenced measuring and making it fit. Ethan does weightlifting and he is larger in the neck, shoulders, chest and arms and very skinny in the waist and hips so I have some adjustments to do.

I have also commenced making a formal dress for Michelle and I will post a sketch of the garment soon.

Fabrics from Linton Tweeds

One week ago I ordered and sent a cheque to Lintondirect and to my surprise my fabrics arrived today only one week after sending the cheque. The fabrics are beautiful, not just in color but in quality and I look forward to making them up. Here is a photo of what I ordered.

The black wool crepe will be a pair of pants. The blue wool crepe will be a skirt and the checked fabric will be a jacket. The jacket will be made like a Chanel jacket and I will use the techniques that were in the threads magazines as well as what I have learned elsewhere.




This week I am working on the khaki travellon skirt and Jacket. I will also cut out the red and the white blouses using the pattern I made for the pink satin blouse but cutting it longer.

Swap no.s

4 out of 6 tops completed

2 out of 4 bottoms completed

0 out of 1 jacket completed

Pink Satin Blouse

Pink satin blouse is nearly finished.

Here is the plan of the blouse.

The satin is a polyester in a warm pink color. The pattern turned out really well. I didn't make a toile of this garment first as I felt that it was right. I made the blouse short from the waist down, 13.5cm from the waist at centre front and 11cm at the side seam. Centre back was shortened 1.5cm more with a sway back adjustment. Ease added was 1cm at waist and hip side seams. I wanted this blouse to be a nice fit. The fit when I tried on the blouse is perfect, I will make this blouse again as is and I will also cut it longer in length.

This photo shows pinning and cutting. I added seam allowances as I cut the blouse.

This shows the completed pattern.

The blouse so far.

The hem is only basted so far I still need to do the machine hem. I have not done the buttonholes and buttons yet either.
I have tried on the blouse and the fit is good. Though satin show every wrinkle and the darts. I think that the next satin blouse I make I will not have side bust darts as think it would look better without them. Every time I make a design and pattern I learn more, which is what its all about.

I have ordered fabrics from Linton Direct UK to make a Chanel style jacket, skirt and pair of trousers.

Jacket and skirt in Khaki colored travellon has been cut out and I have started sewing.

Finishing off the 1st Wardrobe Plan

As of today I have completed

3 out of 6 tops/blouses
1 out of 4 skirts/pants
0 out of 1 jacket

so I have 7 garments to do.

black/red knit top cut out and half sewn. That will leave 6 garments to do. I need to speed up a little bit.

Today I will also draft the pants and make a toile

Over the last 2 weeks I made a costume for a customer and I digitized and embroidered to 't' shirts and a Jacket for Aarons mum.
I have cut out 2 summer dresses ( halterneck) for maddie.
I'm looking forward to having my own camera to photograph my projects.
This is the costume.