12 Jackets/Coats in 2011

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Burda World of Fashion 5/2007 116B

Recently I made this blouse from the Burda World of Fashion magazine 5/2007 116B. http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/116_B_Blouse/1270777-1463237-1487611-1487617-1487792.html

I thought this would make a nice little shirt and it did. I start tracing the size 36 pattern at the neck and shoulder going out to the 38 lines on the side seams. I have made this pattern up twice now and both times in a cotton voile. The second time I used the collar and sleeve from 117.

I read the burda instructions through first and then didn't need to refer to them. The shirts went together quickly and easily and I will probably use this pattern again. I used Vilene G785 to interface the the front facings and collars with a double layer on the collar stand on 116B. The shirts turned out well and were reasonably cheap and quick to make.

Draping a block on larger figures.

I know its been a while since I have posted as I have been really busy between family and working. I have had a lot of alteration jobs and some sewing of garment jobs as well.
This photo is when I was practicing draping the block I wanted on my daughter. After draping the block I drafted the sleeve to fit the block.

I have had success with draping a block on a larger figure and using the drape to draft knit top patterns and shirt patterns. I have made the shirts with differing collars and sleeves and lengths. I have also used the draped block to help alter commercial patterns for a couple of ladies. With some of the patterns I have altered, the draped block helped considerably as it showed some of the alterations that needed to happen even before tissue fitting the pattern like the shoulder slope, the position of the dart, the large difference between small shoulders a verly large bust and the shape of the armhole. All good learning experiences. I am enjoying learning about fitting and seeing the completed garments.

I will soon be using the draped block to draft a jacket pattern. I'm really looking forward to doing this. I wonder how many toiles I'll have to make before I get the pattern right?